Merv

Mary: Merv: A Jewel of Antiquity in Turkmenistan

History: Merv, also known as Merv or Margiana, is an ancient oasis and city in Turkmenistan whose history dates back to early antiquity. The city was situated on the historic Silk Road and served as a crucial hub of trade and culture between the East and the West. Merv experienced various periods of prosperity and decline under different rulers, including the Parthians, Sassanids, Arabs, Seljuks, and Mongols.

Merv reached its zenith during the 11th to 12th centuries when it became the largest city and later the capital of the Turkmen state under the rule of the Great Seljuks. The city center shifted to the area of Sultan-kala, where the citadel Shahriyar-Ark stood. East of Gyaur-Kala, a fortified camp for the Seljuk troops with an area of ​​120 hectares was built, which today is called Shaim-Kala.

New neighborhoods emerged to the north and south of Sultan-Kala, also surrounded by fortress walls. Seljuk Merv stretched along the north-south axis, intersected by the Majan Canal. The main street of the city ran along this canal, with entrance gates at the ends. In the middle of the western and eastern city walls was another entrance gate, connected by a connecting road to the city. In the heart of Sultan-Kala, at the intersection of these streets, stood a walled, square courtyard with the palace of the Seljuks, a domed mosque, and the mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar.

In addition to trade, science, and art flourished in the city of Merv. The beauty and wealth of Merv, as well as its famous bazaars throughout the Muslim East, were legends, and its libraries attracted renowned scholars. After the death of the last Seljuk ruler, Sultan Sanjar, and the collapse of the Great Seljuk Empire, Merv became part of Khorezm.

At the end of the 12th to the beginning of the 13th century, under the Khorezmshahs, Merv experienced a revival after experiencing a decline. The city became once again a bustling center with a flourishing economy and rich culture. The renowned geographer Yaqut al-Hamawi left Merv in 1219 and wrote: “When I left Merv, it was in its most flourishing state… If it were not for what happened through the invasion and destruction of these lands by the Mongols, I would not have left Merv because of the courtesy, warmth, and kindness of its inhabitants and the many books on the fundamental sciences… At the time of my departure, there were ten book depositories – so-called Waqfs…”

According to historical accounts, in 1221, the powerful Mongol army arrived at Merv with 80,000 men. Tolui Khan, the son of Genghis Khan, allegedly spent six days examining the city’s defensive structures – its walls, moats, and minarets – and expressed doubts about their strength. However, intrigues and disputes among the defenders were widespread, making it easier for the enemy to conquer the city.

The consequences of the Mongol attack were devastating. According to the medieval historian Juwayni, over 1.3 million residents of Merv were killed. This catastrophe plunged the city into decades of destruction and recovery difficulties.

In the 15th century, the new governor of Khorasan, Shahrukh, son of Amir Timur, attempted to revive the once magnificent city. To this end, a new city fortress called Abdullahan-Kala was built and settled south of Sultan-Kala. West of it, another Timurid, Mirza Sanjar, built another fortress, which later bore the name of the Turkmen ruler Bairamali-Khan from the 18th century.

Highly pleased with the rebuilding of Merv under Mirza Sanjar, the famous poet Alisher Navoi commemorated this occasion with poems. However, despite all efforts, no one succeeded in restoring the glory of Merv from the time of the Seljuk rule under Sanjar.

Throughout its long history, Merv has always been the target of claims from Bukhara, Khiva, and Persia. Despite their efforts, they could not recapture the city. The indigenous Turkmen captured the city in the early 19th century and fortified the walls of Bairamalikhan-Kala.

However, the destruction of the Sultanbent Dam forced the inhabitants to abandon the city. Merv was abandoned, and the city shifted 30 km to the west, where the modern city of Mary is located today.

Sights: Merv is rich in archaeological sites and historical ruins that bear witness to its glorious past.

• Gonur-Depe: One of the most important archaeological sites near Merv, Gonur-Depe was one of the largest cities of the Bronze Age in Central Asia. The ruins of Gonur-Depe provide insights into the life and culture of the ancient civilizations that inhabited the region.
• Gyaur Kala: The ruins of Gyaur Kala are the remains of an ancient fortress built in the 3rd century BC. The impressive walls and towers testify to the former size and strength of the city.
• Sultan-Kala: This city was once the center of Islamic Merv and houses several well-preserved mosques, mausoleums, and other religious buildings.
• Erk Kala: The remains of this ancient citadel offer a glimpse into the urban life and architecture of Merv during its heyday.

Modern Infrastructure: Although Merv is now a historic site, there are also modern developments to make the area more accessible to visitors.

• Visitor Center: A modern visitor center has been built to welcome tourists and provide them with information about the history and sights of Merv. Here, visitors can obtain maps, tours, and information about archaeological excavations.
• Transportation Connectivity: The city of Mary, closest to Merv, has an airport with connections to other cities in Turkmenistan and international destinations. Additionally, there are roads connecting Merv to other parts of the country.
• Accommodations and Services: Near Merv, there are accommodations for visitors, including hotels, guesthouses, and campsites. Tourists can also avail themselves of local guides and tour operators to explore the sights of Merv.

Merv is not just a historic gem but also a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts and adventurers. Its rich history and impressive ruins make Merv a unique place that transports visitors into the past, allowing them to experience the fascinating history of this ancient oasis.