Bukhara - Fayzabad Khanaqah

The Fayzabad Khanaqah: a jewel of religious architecture in Bukhara

In the north-east of Bukhara, in the immediate vicinity of the historic city walls, is the Fayzabad Khanaqah – a religious building that is not one of the most well-known sights in the region. Due to its remoteness from the historic centre and its distance from the usual tourist routes, this Muslim house of prayer remains hidden from many visitors. Nevertheless, it offers many fascinating discoveries for those who make the journey there and want to experience the special atmosphere of this historic place.

The Fayzabad Khanaqah was built in the 16th century, using burnt brick as the main building material. Construction took place between 1598 and 1599 and the project was led by Mavlon Poyanda-Muhammad Ahsi, also known as Ahsiketi Fayzobodi, a Sufi follower and initiator of the building idea. Despite his vision, the Sufi himself was only able to benefit from the building for a short time, as he died just two years after its completion. After his death, it was decided to rename the Chanaqa, so that the original name ‘Shokhi Akhsi’ was changed to “Fayzabad Khanaqah”.

This renaming only affected the name of the building, while its original functions remained unchanged. As before, the Fayzabad Khanaqah served as a place of prayer, especially for the Friday prayers of Muslims. Evidence of this religious function is the niche (mihrab) in one of the walls of the prayer room, which is orientated towards Mecca. However, the importance of the building for the Muslim community went far beyond prayer.

The Fayzabad Khanaqah also functioned as a retreat for Sufis. It was a place where dervishes, who were often travelling, could spend the night. A special area of the building was set aside for their stay and served as a chanaqa – a Sufi retreat that offered practising dervishes both spiritual retreat and a temporary home.

From an architectural point of view, the Fayzabad Khanaqah is a typical example of 16th century architecture. The building is characterised by precise proportions and clear symmetry. Although the building has been restored several times, its basic identity has been preserved, giving it a remarkable authenticity and emphasising its uniqueness.

The most striking feature of the Khanaqah is the high portal that frames the central entrance to the building. It rises majestically above the structure and takes the form of a vertical rectangle containing an incised, arched niche. This portal corresponds to the architectural standards of the time and gives the building an imposing appearance. There are arched galleries on either side of the portal, which lend the building additional elegance. The richly decorated façade contributes harmoniously to the overall picture.

The main dome of the building may appear simple and modest at first glance, but this impression is deceptive. Inside the building, the true beauty of the dome is revealed, which is generously decorated with white ganch patterns. These decorative techniques, known as ‘chaspak’, give the dome an almost floating appearance and lend the entire space an unmistakable lightness.

The interior of the Khanaqah is characterised by two dominant colours: Blue and white. These calming colours determine the appearance of the room and lend the building a spiritual, almost ethereal atmosphere. Shades of gold and brown provide additional accents, particularly in the filigree decorations of the mihrab, which give the room a warm yet opulent appearance. This colour combination not only underlines the aesthetic quality of the room, but also reinforces the significance of the chanaqa as a place of devotion and retreat.

The Fayzabad Khanaqah remains a significant, if lesser-known, example of religious architecture and spiritual practice in Central Asia. Its history and architecture invite a deeper exploration of the cultural and religious aspects of the region and offer a deeper engagement with the traditions of the Sufi community.