Bukhara - Hodja Gaukushon Ensemble

The Hodja Gaukushon Ensemble in Bukhara: a masterpiece of XVIth century architecture

The impressive Hodja Gaukushon Ensemble, whose construction dates back to the XVI century, is located in the historic centre of Bukhara. The name of this ensemble, ‘Gaukuschon’, literally means ‘bull killer’ and refers to the history of the place, which was once a huge market with a slaughterhouse. Even in earlier times, this vast space was used as a trading centre. Under the new rulers of the Shaybanid dynasty, Bukhara began to develop rapidly in the XVI century, which led to the construction of many unique architectural structures that have survived to this day. Important religious buildings such as a large madrasah and the Dome Mosque with a high minaret were also built on Gaukushon Square.

Sheikh Hodja Saad, a member of the revered Juibar family, came up with the idea of founding this ensemble. Sheikh Hodja Saad provided the necessary funds for the construction of these important buildings and thus became the most important supporter of the project. In honour of this generous patron, his name was included in the name of the mosque and the entire complex. The sheikh was also called ‘Hodja Kalon’, which means ‘Great Hodja’. Therefore, the structures of the complex are sometimes also referred to as ‘Hodja Kalon’. Sheikh Hodja Saad himself was buried in the tomb of Khor-Bakr together with members of his family.

The Hodja Gaukushon Ensemble is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and, together with other buildings in the historic part of Bukhara, is on the world organisation’s list of historic architectural heritage. There are souvenir shops selling goods for tourists near the madrasah, and there is also a restaurant near the square. However, travellers who have visited the complex report that some parts of the buildings appear somewhat neglected despite the restoration work that has been carried out.

The ensemble consists of a madrasa of astonishing beauty and a dome mosque (cathedral) that includes an impressive minaret, the height of which is only surpassed by the famous minaret of Kalon. It is even believed that the minaret of Hodja is a scaled-down copy of the minaret of Kalon. The decoration of the Hodja Gaukushon Ensemble is characterised by a two-tone ganch decoration that adorns the complex and emphasises its architectural beauty.

The madrasah, a traditional Muslim educational institution, is a two-storey building built in the typical oriental style according to the traditional courtyard scheme. It has the shape of a trapezoid as it stands at the intersection of several streets. The madrasah was built in the middle of the XVI century, in 1570, under the ruler Abdullah Khan II of the Shaibanid dynasty. In this madrasa, students were taught various disciplines, including the history of Islam, Arabic, Sharia and the Koran.

In 1598, a mosque called ‘Masjid Jome Hodja’ was built to the north of the madrasa. This Jome Mosque, also known as the ‘Friday Mosque’, was a cathedral mosque and could accommodate several thousand worshippers. The worshippers gathered in the inner courtyard of the mosque, which was surrounded by vaulted galleries under domes supported by brick pillars. The main building, the maxura, was located in front of the mihrab, a niche in the wall facing Mecca. It was the place for the collective midday prayer, the Friday prayer, which was held by the Muslim community.

Between the madrasa and the mosque rises the minaret, whose reflection can be admired in the water of an artificial reservoir. This reservoir serves as a source of drinking water and is described by travellers as being in good condition. The place invites you to linger and offers a welcome opportunity to relax after the tour. The minaret itself is made of burnt bricks and has a conical shape. It stands on a stone foundation surrounded by bundles of wood. Inside, a spiral staircase leads to a rotunda lantern, which is decorated with a stalactite cornice. The minaret has twelve window openings that provide soft lighting.

The Hodja Gaukushon Ensemble is an important landmark of Bukhara and an outstanding example of XVIth century architecture. It attracts numerous travellers every year, who not only appreciate the cultural and religious aspects of the region, but also admire the impressive architecture of this historical complex.