Bukhara - Magoki Attori Mosque

The Magoki Attori Mosque in Bukhara: a mirror of the centuries

In the heart of the historic city of Bukhara stands the Magoki Attori Mosque, a building of exceptional historical and cultural significance. The mosque is unique in many respects: it still retains its original building plan and ornate decor, which reflects the architectural mastery of past centuries. Its history dates back to pre-Islamic times, making it a fascinating symbol of religious diversity and change in Central Asia.

Origin and legends
The Magoki Attori Mosque in Bukhara was built on a site that was considered holy ground long before the arrival of Islam. Scientists have established that a temple of fire worshippers once stood on this site, which served the followers of Zoroastrianism. A temple of the moon was also located here, which gave the mosque its second name: ‘Mosque Moh’ – from the Persian ‘Mah’ and Tajik ‘Moh’, meaning ‘moon’.

This place was not only a religious centre, but also a lively trading centre. The so-called ‘moon market’, where remedies, spices and other goods were traded, was located in the immediate vicinity. During the Nowruz New Year celebrations, numerous statues of various deities of the Zoroastrian religion were displayed in this bazaar, symbolising fertility and a rich harvest.

The change under Islam
With the spread of Islam in Central Asia, the temple of the fire worshippers was destroyed and Muslim builders erected the Magoki Attori Mosque in its place in the 9th century. The name ‘Magoki’ means ‘in a pit’ and refers to its location, which has sunk deeper and deeper into the ground over the centuries. In the writings of Narshakhi, an important historian of the 10th century, the mosque is explicitly mentioned as a ‘magok’, which illustrates the locals’ perception of it as an underground house of prayer.

Architecture and architecture
The original mosque was an architectural masterpiece. It was built with six supporting columns and a mighty twelve-panelled dome. The main entrance was marked by a magnificent arch, which rested on two stone pillars and was decorated with elaborate carvings. Particularly impressive was the skilful combination of brick patterns in the form of arches with glazed inserts and terracotta mosaics, which refracted the light in a fascinating way and created a play of shadows and textures.

Unfortunately, the first building of the mosque was almost completely destroyed by a devastating fire at the end of the 10th century. Only fragments of the carved ganch (stucco decorations) and remains of the walls survived this catastrophe. In the 12th century, the mosque was rebuilt on the same foundations, largely retaining the original building plan.

Destruction and reconstruction
Despite its magnificent reconstruction, the second mosque only lasted around three centuries before it was destroyed again. The only element that survived was the south portal, which is still famous today for its ornate decoration. It is a prime example of Bukhara’s architecture and demonstrates a high degree of craftsmanship: vertically arranged panels are decorated with intricate reliefs and elaborate inscriptions in Arabic.

One remarkable aspect of the building’s history is the continuous rise in the ground level around the mosque. When the building was remodelled again in 1547, the level had risen so much that a new entrance had to be created. This required the construction of a wide staircase leading down to the prayer house, while the south portal was already six to eight metres below the surface at the time.

Archaeological discoveries and restorations
In the 1920s, archaeologists began excavating the south portal. Not only were the destroyed upper and side parts of the portal secured, but the façade was also cleaned and partially restored. Archaeological investigations revealed further fascinating details: it was discovered that the original mosque had an impressive twelve-pillar dome, supported by massive columns that distributed the weight of the dome.

The interplay of the different architectural styles that merge in the Magoki Attori Mosque is particularly fascinating. The influence of the Zoroastrian past, Islamic architecture and the unique handwriting of the Bukhara architects bear witness to the cultural diversity of this region.

A place of dialogue and encounter
Another remarkable chapter in the history of this mosque is its role as a place of interfaith dialogue. Before the first synagogue was built in Bukhara, Jews and Muslims prayed together in the Magoki Attori Mosque – a sign of the peaceful coexistence of religious communities at the time. This history gives the building added depth and makes it a symbol of tolerance and coexistence.

The Magoki Attori Mosque is more than just a building made of bricks and mortar – it is a living testimony to the eventful history of Bukhara and a symbol of the religious and cultural diversity of this region. Its walls tell stories of Zoroastrians, Muslims and Jews, of destruction and reconstruction, of craftsmanship and faith. Anyone visiting the Magoki Attori Mosque today is not just entering a building, but immersing themselves in a world in which history and legends are inextricably interwoven.