Bukhara - Nodir Devonbegi madrasah

The Nodir Devonbegi madrasah and its architectural ensemble

The Nodir Devonbegi madrasah, which is part of the Nodir Devonbegi ensemble in Bukhara, was originally planned and built as a caravanserai. However, when it was ceremonially opened between 1622 and 1623, it was declared a madrasah by Imam Kulikhan. In order to fulfil this new purpose, the building had to be reconstructed and rebuilt. An additional storey was added to the single-storey building to create living quarters for students. In addition, an imposing portal, loggias and several towers were added to the façade.

A striking feature of this madrasa is that the main hall intended for teaching was not built. As a result, the Nodir Devonbegi madrasah lacks aiwans and the darskhana domed rooms typical of traditional madrasahs. Instead, large corner rooms took over their function. The wide and high passageway through the portal, which is characteristic of caravanserais, and the exit to the rear courtyard of the house have been retained.

The portal is decorated with ornate mosaic images of animals. Particularly noteworthy are the depictions of the mythical bird Semurg, which is revered in the mythology of the Turkic peoples of Central Asia as the king of birds and guardian bird with supernatural powers. The Semurg birds on the portal fly towards the sun and hold deer in their talons. The portal is also adorned with a sacred inscription praising Allah and his prophet Muhammad (PBUH).

Opposite the madrasah is a khanaqah named after the same vizier. This building was constructed between 1619 and 1620 and consists of several architectural elements. The main component is an imposing, elongated portal, which is decorated with epigraphic depictions. There are hujras on the sides of the portal. The central entrance group of the khanaqah is simple and modest, but decorated in a classical style with floral motifs.

The medrese and the khanaqah are separated by a large, artificial pond, which is orientated in a rectangular shape from east to west. This body of water is known as the Havuz of Nodir Devonbegi. The banks of the pond consist of large, stepped blocks of bright yellow colour. The main building material for these steps was limestone.

The main façade of the Khanaqah is impressively reflected in the water of the Havuz and simultaneously functions as an architectural and decorative screen that completes the perspective of the ensemble. For centuries, the filigree majolica portal of the khanaqah was reflected in the water of the pond, giving the place a special atmosphere.

The Masjidi Kalon Mosque was called Khanaqah by the Hungarian orientalist and dervish Hermann Vámbery. He described how, under the shade of the trees, actors performed the exploits of famous warriors and prophets and were always surrounded by numerous curious listeners and spectators.

The khanaqah itself is comparatively small, compact and square in shape. It has two storeys and is almost completely covered by a high portal with a slightly raised dome visible above its side façades. Inside there is a spacious and high hall that takes up almost the entire area of the khanaqah. Smaller hujras, which served as living and study rooms, are housed in its massive corner areas.