Bukhara - Zindan
The Zindan of Bukhara: a dark chapter in history
The term ‘zindan’ comes from the Persian language and means ‘prison’, ‘dungeon’ or ‘underground, in darkness’. In the historic city of Bukhara, it referred to a notorious prison built in the 18th century at the north-western corner of ancient Shahristan. The Zindan of Bukhara was not only a place of imprisonment, but also a symbol of the practice of criminal law and the exercise of power in the Emirate of Bukhara.
The architecture of horror
On the outside, the Zindan resembled a small fortress whose massive walls offered protection from escapes and at the same time concealed the cruel reality of life inside. The complex was divided into two main areas: The first area contained several courtyards around which the cells were arranged. Prisoners with less serious offences were housed here. The second area was far more terrifying: there were deep pits into which criminals were lowered – a place that more than deserved the name ‘Zindan’.
One particularly notorious part of the Zindan was the so-called ‘black hole’: a dark shaft around six metres deep into which prisoners were lowered by rope. They were kept there in unimaginable conditions, often only provided with minimal food rations, which were lowered down on ropes. Darkness, confinement and isolation made this place synonymous with human suffering and despair.
The justice of the Emir
There were only two Zindan in Bukhara: one inside the Ark fortress, which was primarily intended for political prisoners, and the Zindan outside, which mainly housed criminals. Twice a month, the inmates of the outside zindan were taken to Registan Square in front of the Ark. There, the emir held court in person. In front of the assembled citizens, he decided on life and death, pardon or execution. These rituals served not only to administer justice, but also to demonstrate power and intimidate the population.
Punishments ranged from floggings and amputations to cruel executions. According to reports, some convicts were thrown alive into the ‘black hole’, from which there was often no escape. Death was often caused by hunger, cold or suffocation.
Everyday life in the Zindan
Life in the Zindan was characterised by unimaginable hardship. The cells were dark, damp and cold. Food was scarce and the hygienic conditions were catastrophic. Diseases spread rapidly and the inmates were often forced to live in inhumane conditions. It was almost impossible to see daylight in the deeper pits of the Zindan. Even in the ‘better’ cells, prisoners suffered from a lack of fresh air and clean water.
Some sources report prisoners losing their sight in the darkness, while others died of hunger or disease. The lucky few who left the Zindan alive were often broken and scarred for life.
A place of remembrance
Today, the Zindan houses a museum that documents criminal justice and prison conditions in the Emirate of Bukhara in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Several exhibition rooms contain lifelike figures depicting prisoners as well as a torture chamber with authentic instruments of torture. Visitors are given a depressing insight into the cruel methods of punishment and the harsh living conditions of the prisoners.
Of particular interest on the site is the tomb of the highly honoured prisoner ‘Kuchkar-Ata’ from the 8th century, which adds a spiritual dimension to the Zindan and illustrates the close connection between religion and history in Bukhara. The tomb is visited by believers seeking protection and healing – a contrast to the dark memories of suffering and death evoked by the rest of the Zindan.
A memorial to history
The Zindan of Bukhara is more than a historical prison – it is a symbol of the dark times of arbitrary rule and cruel punitive practices. Today it serves as a memorial, reminding visitors of the brutality of times past while reflecting the rich, complex history of this legendary city. The cries of the past echo in the dark pits and fortress-like walls, reminding us that freedom and justice are precious commodities that must always be preserved.